Kinkead Ridge Vineyard and an Estate Winery Weblog: Annual Barrel Tasting a Huge Success

Harvest

Vintage Report 2010
The 2010 vintage was unusual in that weather was characterized in the Ohio River Valley by localized persistent patterns and storm tracks which varied dramatically over distances of 100 miles or less. More typically in mid/late summer we get sporadic and erratic rain events accompanied by temperate swings in temperature. We started the vintage with warm and wet weather which accelerated bud break and bloom which in turn made for an early vintage. Then came incessant heat, humidity and rain throughout August which increased vegetative vigor while diminishing the energy level and enthusiasm of grapegrower and crew. Then the weather pattern shifted, and while the heat remained, rainfall became almost non-existent through October. Abrupt changes like this drive grapevines (and the people who tend them) semi-crazy. As a result, I am only semi-confident of the quality of the wines from this vintage. Because of high sugar levels and low acidity most wineries picked early. We didn't, but even with extended hang times, flavors never really fully developed. Red wines are alcoholic and light in color due to lighter colored berries and thinner skins. White wines are perhaps more interesting due to their substantial heft, alcoholic and otherwise. Overall though there should be some excellent wines from this vintage. By barrel tasting time (Thanksgiving), at least some of the red wines should prove interesting. Whites are on track to show well on release (Memorial Day weekend). There could be some stunners. Quantity however will be very limited, particularly for whites. Due to lingering effects from the abysmal 2009 season and some adverse spring weather, crop levels were only about half of what might be considered “normal”. If I were a politician, I would use the words “cautiously optimistic” to describe my attitude toward this vintage.
Vintage Report 2009
We ended up with about 35% of a full crop and will likely have no first-label wines. All the wines are clean and sound. The whites in particular are coming around and should be a good fit for our value-driven second-label River Village Cellars. As always with a tough vintage, it's too soon to tell for the reds. Confronted by the realities of the 2009 vintage, a professional wine spinner might be tempted to represent this vintage as a difficult one, but nonetheless with some "great wines produced". Unfortunately said spinner (typically a marketing person for a winery or a spokesperson for a wine trade organization) would be well advised to take early retirement! 2009 was quite simply the worst vintage I have ever witnessed or experienced as a grower. It is on a par with the dismal 1977 and 1984 vintages in Oregon. We did have a promising start to the vintage with moderate weather and we missed the spring frost which decimated vineyards in northern Ohio. Then in July, the weather turned cold and wet and stayed that way through October. Our crew did the best job of canopy management ever, but to no avail. Enormous disease pressure combined with the need for extended hang time meant that we ended up selectively picking everything to avoid rot. It some cases, picking cost more than the fruit was worth.
Vintage Report 2008
As I write this in late February, the wines from 2008 have been cleaned up and are showing very well. After a cool spring which delayed bloom, the weather turned generally warm and dry until late October. Harvest dates were later than usual due to the late bloom, but full maturity was obtained on all varieties save for Petit Verdot. Brix levels were mid-20s on some varietals. Despite extensive shoot and crop thinning, yields were high, and in some cases higher than desired. Overall, in this winegrower's opinion, 2008 might be the best vintage yet for Kinkead Ridge. Stars for 2008 include the White Revelation (to be released Memorial Day weekend 2009) and the Cabernet Sauvignon (to be released Labor Day 2010). See http://www.KinkeadRidge.com/htm/wines.htm for a description of the past vintages.
Vintage Report 2007
An early bud break meant an early harvest; we were finished by mid-October. Sadly, it also meant several days of 80 degree weather, shoots four inches long, and then an Easter freeze which plunged the vineyard to 28 degrees. All the white wine was affected, to a tragic degree. There will be very little Viognier/Roussanne, little Riesling, and it may not even be worth bottling the Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend. Syrah was also heavily affected. The good news is the long dry ripening season was outstanding for Cabernet; small berries, high sugars. These wines will be reminiscent of Calistoga, higher in alcohol than our general practice.
Vintage Report 2006
As this is written (January 2007), I've had the opportunity to both reflect on the vintage past and taste the wines as they have begun to develop. Going into harvest season, the vineyard was in excellent condition. Crop load and canopy management was on target. Weather deteriorated in mid-September and some of the harvest conditions were as difficult as I've ever experienced. October in particular was troublesome as cold temperatures and excessive rainfall limited maturities. Despite the above, white wines are turning out surprisingly well. Red wines, however, are questionable and many may end up as second label when released in 2008. So far we have had a mild winter and I look forward to a spring with little winter damage and overall good growing conditions in 2007.
Vintage Report 2005
2005 in the vineyard was a vintage of extremes. Unlike 2004 where moisture, heat and humidity were well distributed, it seemed like the heat and humidity would never end. Rainfall came either not at all or in a deluge. Fortunately, harvest turned out mostly dry with only the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot caught by rain at the end of October. In the winery, most of the fruit came in low in acid and high in sugar. Adjustments were made and fermentations, though quirky, finished well. Overall, the wines show good promise, and for some, 2005 may prove to be the best vintage yet.

We were slammed. Check out tasting notes from two bloggers! Photos coming.

First reviews of 2008 reds from Dan McGrew, http://www.dogswine.blogspot.com

"The 2007 wines are big, full flavored, young and delicious. The 2008 wines have many of the same characteristics but seem to add a dimension of elegance to that mix. Both are very, very good vintages in this area.

At Kinkead Ridge we tasted, in order, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The Syrah was the most closed of the wines, the Cab Franc the most open and instantly appealing, the Petit Verdot the darkest and most flavorful, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was my favorite. Flavor, body, acid, tannin, oak were all first class. Time to put away some $ between now and September of 2010 when the bottled wines will be released.

This past September I purchased a mixed case of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from the 2007 vintage, and it was good to taste those wines again to see how they were developing. I have yet to open any of mine. I was more than pleased with the progress the two wines showed in the bottle. Again, the Cabernet Sauvignon was my favorite."

______________________

Review by Aaron Fetters, Cincinnati on the Annual Barrel Tasting.

"Let's start with our first stop of the day, Kinkead Ridge in Ripley. Kinkead was sampling 4 varieties from their 2008 vintage all still aging in the barrels - Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. I'll start by noting, 2008 was an amazing growing year for grapes here in Southern Ohio - hot and dry with a late harvest. With that fact in mind, it's no wonder all 4 of the wines Ron at Kinkead was sampling were absolute BOMBS. I tend to talk up Ohio wines probably more than I should, but for once I think it's no exaggeration to say no one would ever believe these wines come from Ohio - they taste way more like huge reds from northern California. My personal favorite at this point was the Syrah which will be the first Kinkead has put its primary label on since 2005. Each of these wines will be released around Labor Day 2010 so be sure to make a note of it for future reference."

For the full report, see http://enjoyingthefirstmiracle.blogspot.com/

Your friendly wine blogger,

Nancy Bentley

Kinkead Ridge Managing Partner

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Kinkead Ridge Vineyard and an Estate Winery Weblog

The day to day joys and trials of a small ultra-premium all vinifera vineyard and estate winery in historic Ripley, Ohio. The owners formerly owned Chehalem Valley Vineyards in Yamhill, Oregon. Looking for a new challenge, they sold that 40-acre Pinot Noir vineyard to Tony Soter in 1997.

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